
Condition. It can be the difference between a $100 card and a $1,000 card, and often the visual discrepancy is indiscernible. Let’s take a look at why the condition is so important, how to grade sports cards, and how to use knowledge of grading to further your collecting and investing goals.
The appeal of condition is intuitive. Cards that look better are more valuable, just like a well-maintained car is more valuable than the rusty equivalent. It’s inherently more appealing. But for collectibles, the condition is far more important than that. The condition provides an additional layer of scarcity. For example, there are 100,000s of 2020 Topps Luis Robert base cards (#392) while there are only 1,616 graded PSA 10 at this time. The PSA 10 (gem mint) example is far scarcer, and several times more valuable.
Set yourself up in a well-lit space, and take the card out of its sleeve so you can look at it directly. If you need more light, get a 2-4x magnifying lamp. Evaluate the card mostly with your naked eye, but sometimes you’ll appreciate the magnification to take a closer look.
Next, prepare yourself with reasonable expectations. Most cards, even fresh from a pack, are not gem mint. Blame the manufacturer, the distributor, the middleman, or whoever you want. But that’s just the way it is, you’re likely to find some defects.
Inspect each of the following aspects of the card.
A typical modern card out of the pack has one or two very minor imperfections and is considered NM/MT – Mint. This is the condition you should expect when looking at an ungraded card. If the card is perfect, it’s potentially a Gem Mint example and you may want to send it in to be graded by PSA or another third-party grader. If it has more than 2 minor defects, the defects should be noted when selling or trading the card. For examples of cards at all different grades, use this visual guide from PSA.
If you pulled a highly defective card out of a pack, both Panini and Topps offer a replacement program.
A graded test form with red scoring pencil indicates acheivement and success in education.
A card’s condition and attractiveness can be entirely different. A perfect card that has a pin hole in it is in Poor or Fair condition, but it will look far better than a typical Fair conditioned card. Cards with eye appeal that outshine their technical grade are more valuable than other cards of that grade. Some consignment houses will even grade the eye appeal.
When you purchase a modern card online, it should be NM/MT to Mint or otherwise noted. Do the best you can to evaluate condition based on the photos, but also do research on the seller. Check their ratings, but also check their inventory. If you’re buying an ungraded card from a seller that sells both graded and ungraded cards, there’s a good chance that the raw cards did not meet their standards to submit for third-party grading, and are likely not Mint or better. If you have concerns, message the seller before buying. It’s generally frowned upon to return sports cards unless the defect is meaningful and not apparent from the listing.
You’ll find that your standards for condition might not perfectly correspond with those of third party graders or of the card community in general. For instance, you may find surface wrinkles to be tolerable but soft corners intolerable. For your personal collection, buy cards with surface wrinkles then! You’ll get a nice discount on a card in a condition you accept.
Developing your grading skills will protect you from overpaying for ungraded cards, and eventually allow you to take advantage of profit opportunities. When you’re ready to seek profit, consider these strategies:
Look at your cards. Dedicate time to reviewing both your graded and ungraded cards in detail. It’s your collection and reviewing it is part of the fun. You will also develop your grading skill which will undoubtedly help you advance your collecting and investing goals.
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